Sewing thread

[Whiteburn]

I’m looking to make some pockets & a lid out of 140g/m2 Dyneema (Extremtextil) fabric & I’m unsure about what thread to use. I’ve a spool of “Alterfil S, 100 % Polyester, 80Nm”, from Extremtextil which I was thinking of using, any comments?

Also what’s the ‘best’ stitch pitch for Dyneema, I was thinking ~ 8 - 10 stitches/ inch (2.5 – 3mm)?

 

[Teepee]

8-10 Spi sounds right to me. Personally I'd try to use thread with more guts to make the finished project more balanced but that will work absolutely fine.

Depends on your machine a lot too, some don't handle thick threads well and that may be the maximum it can handle.

 

[Whiteburn]

....Depends on your machine a lot too, some don't handle thick threads well and that may be the maximum it can handle.

Only have a cheapo machine but have used the 80Nm OK for bivi bags, stuff sacks, dry bags, etc. It does start to struggle a bit at some seam junctions when there may be 6+ layers of fabric & an amateur driving it.

 

[Teepee]

Gut feeling says stick with the 80, you can always double sew the seams. A bigger thread will need a bigger needle and will struggle more.

Apologies if you know but supersharp needles very strongly recommended rather than a universal or jeans/leather needle, so it'll poke a clean hole without snagging the dyneema. If it digs into your fingernail at an acute angle with no pressure, it's sharp enough.

 

[7wave]

Is there an "official" method about the stitches per inch ratio?

 

[EM - paul]

Is there an "official" method about the stitches per inch ratio?

Depends very much on the fabric. if you are sewing say silnylon and the end product will be put under tension then you dont want the stitches too small. All this does is put a lot of holes in the fabric very close together. when you stretch it the thread acts like cheese wire and soon you will have problems. In most instances though its not a big issue. I like 8 stitches an inch as a rule.

 

[7wave]

Thanks for your answer The machine i use, guess most of them do, has a "tension regulator". If i shorten the stitches, i loosen the tension a bit, and viceversa, to minimize that "cheese wire" effect.

 

[cathyjc]

In dressmaking the 'general' rule is that the thicker the fabric the longer the stitches and vice versa. I think I'd over-ride that where you just need as few holes in the fabric as possible.
Again in dressmaking, you match the thread to the fabric as much as possible ie. cotton thread for cotton fabric / man made thread for man made textile. However, cotton thread swells when wet and effectively blocks the stitch holes -so can prevent water ingress - which can be usefull for tents of any fabric . Think I'd still seam seal tho' on silnylon .

 

[7wave]

I think i've heard about a "mixed" thread consisting of a polyester core and a cotton exterior. Should be best of both worlds. With the polyester inner durabilty, the cotton will expand when wet, making it perfect for outdoor waterproof proyects.

P.s. Could best or worst of both worlds...

 

[EM - paul]

I can say i no longer use gutterman polyester, its just so expensive. Good thread no doubt but i use Coats Moon polyester thread now and get 1000 yards for the price of 110 yards of gutterman. Ive found it very durable and all of my machines both new and old like it. Tons of it on ebay

As i write im sitting overhauling a 1938 singer 99k hand crank. Nothing more satisfying than returning old machines to their former glory. My new 201k anniversary addition is next for some love then i might be able to get back to some sewing.

we need a 'show us your thread injector' thread

 

[cathyjc]

I can say i no longer use gutterman polyester, its just so expensive. Good thread no doubt but i use Coats Moon polyester thread now and get 1000 yards for the price of 110 yards of gutterman. Ive found it very durable and all of my machines both new and old like it. Tons of it on ebay

As i write im sitting overhauling a 1938 singer 99k hand crank. Nothing more satisfying than returning old machines to their former glory. My new 201k anniversary addition is next for some love then i might be able to get back to some sewing.

we need a 'show us your thread injector' thread

Great - I agree there is something so fundamentally satisfying about working with machines made out of well made chunks of metal. The modern plastic ones feel tacky in comparison.

 

[Hedley Heap]

Paul
Do you fancy running an eye over my Jones?

 

[EM - paul]

To be honest Hedley im no expert, all i do is strip them down, clean the crud out, reassemble and oil them up. What seems to be the problem with it?

 

[edh]

Are we still on sewing machines.....?

 

[EM - paul]

Are we still on sewing machines.....?

well it is a sewing thread, see what i did there

 

[cathyjc]

To be honest Hedley im no expert, all i do is strip them down, clean the crud out, reassemble and oil them up. What seems to be the problem with it?

I do the same - seems to be all the old machines need - well mine at least.

 

[Hedley Heap]

Paul
I'm not sure, it runs fine with no thread in but when sewing it has a "tight spot" where it sort of jams.
Also I have to have the tension dial turned right up for it sew anywhere near right.
Oiling it made some difference to making it run smoothly when not sewing but not to it catching when sewing.
Does any of that make sense.

 

[EM - paul]

Could be anything but assuming its correctly threaded (old machines are very sensitive to this) bobbin would be my first port of call. if there is any hardened oil and lint residue this will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. just watching the bobbin mechanism while stitching slowly can often show the problem, especially if the thread isnt being picked up properly. thread tension shouldnt need to be that high. i seldom go past 3 on my singers. there are tons of videos and blogs out there which will give you good advice. i just go for a full strip down and clean and its worked on all of mine.