Discussion in 'DIY & MYOG' started by Graham, Oct 27, 2016.
Also, I weighted it at 50g/m², which obviously was a nice surprise
Very nice petit frere. I like the hide away belt system and I like that mentioning a fabric on a uk site brings a contribution from across the manche.
This outdoor fabric supplier looks good. Both light and heavyweight 20mm polyester webbing that looks nicer and less shiny than the pro-fabrics one. Shipping was Euro 4.90, so much cheaper than extremtextil and I got a confirmation email in Finnish.
@Clare ..That's good to know. I've often checked Shelby over the years but never managed to buy anything from them (yet). Fwiw, The Pro fabrics webbing on the pack I've got with me now is Polyester....it seems just right. Nice and smooth to adjust, looks and feels slick and quality, but not a hint of slipping.
https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/compa...West Europe&DCSext.division=Marketing & Sales
I want to seam seal my cuben zpacks style pack. I bought some cuben tape but the length I bought is not going to be enough and it’s v expensive. But why does the adhesive tape need a cuben backing. Can’t I just use 3M transfer tape to seal the internal seams?
You can use the transfer tape on anything that will stick to the tape permanently and use that instead of DCF backing. You need something on one side though as it is double sided.
I used the bonding tape with some DCF I cut into strips to make my own "tape". Takes time and is fiddly but saves spending more dosh.
Yup this what I’ve decided to do. I’ve ordered 3M venture tape from Paul and will stick it to some thin cuben I have from a previous project. Now that I have a huge cutting mat and metal rule it should be quite quick. Venture tape is much cheaper than the 3M transfer tape.
Now I'm confused the only "3M Venture tape" I've come across is aluminium backed tape
For MYO seam tape I'd be looking at the transfer tape & strips of cuben as @cathyjc suggested.
"Venture tape is much cheaper than the 3M transfer tape."
For me the jury is still out on the relative "quality" of each. I used the Venture on places when there is little tension - eg. sealing and hems.
Venture tape as listed on 3M and amazon is indeed alu backed but Paul sells what he calls venture tape for cuben bonding. I don’t know what it actually is but it’s less than half the price of transfer tape and if it’s good enough for seam sealing then that’s good enough for me.
I have a roll of pauls venture tape, it sticks very well to cuben but not quite as well as the 9485pc imo. It's not just transfer tape either. The venture tape has a film in there too so it has more substance/bulk.
My impression too.
If using a lot of the venture tape I think you maybe adding extra grams you weren't expecting.
There are a bunch of alternates here, I'd be looking at the acrylic tapes. Not sure what will or won't work well but if you want to save money the Avon one looks worth a try for the price.
Choose £7 or £50 a roll. Still, got to wonder what the price difference represents. And whether it would ever matter. I notice they use the £50 3M stuff on backpacking light threads. I never intended to become a sellotape expert when I started making this pack!
Watched this today, everything you ever wanted to know about zips and how to install them. Thought it might be a useful resource on here.
The 50 quid 3m stuff is very good.
But 50 for a roll of tape!?!
Just so everyone is clear, im not making up names for my tapes Its venture tape 1163.
As @craige states its a pet film carrier with pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive both sides. Weight is 4.8g per linear meter bonded to 1in wide 0.5oz cuben (applied, i.e backing removed). @cathyjc is correct that the 9485pc is lighter as it uses a thinner layer of adhesive and doesnt use a carrier film. I think the key here is does the product you want to use form a permanent bond and both tapes do. If i was making a shelter with a huge amount of seams to bond then id probably go 9485pc to shave the weight but 1163 is perfectly fine for all cuben bonding and sealing uses in my experience and the price is nice. A chandlers i use believe the chemical make up of the adhesives are the same in both tapes but that 9485pc was developed as a thinner run without the film to make the most of the weight characteristics of cuben but the world is full of stories that cant be substantiated. i can see why having a carrier film and thicker application of adhesive would make it quicker and more cost effective to produce 1163 but :shrug emoji: who knows.
Applying some verisimilitude to the above, ive had 1 bonded cuben product returned for a seam failure in the last 3 years with the owner admitting they had maybe gone a little bit ott on the size of what they might try to fit into it. When bonded seams in bags do fail they do tent to follow the seam but you should see fibre damage in the approach to the seam which undermines the bond before it lets go. In tents its often more sudden and can go from anywhere it wants to anywhere else depending of the forces applied.
Lastly its important to apply any taping procedure properly no matter what you use. Always clean bonding surfaces with pure alcohol and a lint free clean cloth / swab and dry properly. Always apply pressure to the seam but dont go crazy as too much will push the tape around and potentially weaken the bond. Never stress a seam until 24 hrs have passed as the bond does cure and strengthen.
Sorry its taken a why to comment. Ive been dying slowly for a week but im on the mend now.
Happy bondage one and all
Thanks for the tape info Paul.
Doin a poncho quilt. Not very good at sewing (this is the first actual sewing i've done beyond patching little holes in clothing).
Done the main part of the quilt, seems fine as long as no one pays attention to how straight the stitching is.
My main trouble is going to be sewing the head hole. For people with more sewing experience, how do you manage sewing in the centre of a thick material (apex 133)? Head hole will be in the center of the quilt, so half the quilt needs to squidge between the foot and the body/stem (? what does one call this part of the sewing machine), unless i'm thinking about this the wrong way?
All made simpler if you can get access to a "free arm" style sewing machine.
Like one of these?
It does come off, but i'm unsure how that will help with the bunching of fabric? Crude diagram to explain where the fabric will have to bunch up, in case my words aren't clear:
This is a free arm machine - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SINGER-320k
Not sure if your machine is the same.
If you close the edges of the hole with a "binding" type edge and tack the fabric in place first (unpick later) - you know both sides are lined up together then stitch thro' all layers at once, with the neck hole going around the free arm.
Anyone else any better techniques ?
That makes sense! Tired brain. Yes, thankfully this machine has a free arm.
However, I'm not sure what you mean by a binding type edge? Like hemming the edge?
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