The "what have you made today" thread

Whiteburn

Thru Hiker
:thumbsup:
If you have 14mm tubing and flicklock poles, why not use that to replace the lower sections of both poles? It would be lighter and probably stronger too.
The lightest way to join 2 flicklock poles is to use a piece of 12mm tube ~10cm long (dis-guarding the lower sections of two poles); I've had 2 bend in the past.
The other downside is that you need 2 poles, what happens if one is broken or lost; I very nearly lost one down a hole in a boulder field & took nearly an hour to fish out using a Ti pin taped to the other pole.
 

Teepee

Thru Hiker
I won't use my BD's for tent poles anymore in windy conditions. They bend too much. Joining my Leki's which are 2mm larger diameter is a huge amount less wobbly.
 

Balagan

Thru Hiker
Replacing 16mm tube with 14mm....stronger ?????
I think not.
Yes, stronger because it stay totally within the 16mm tube: remove lower (14mm) sections from both poles, replace with tube joining the middle sections of both poles with flickloks nearly touching and you get one massively strong pole that is used handle up and down...
 

Balagan

Thru Hiker
The lightest way to join 2 flicklock poles is to use a piece of 12mm tube ~10cm long (dis-guarding the lower sections of two poles); I've had 2 bend in the past.
The other downside is that you need 2 poles, what happens if one is broken or lost; I very nearly lost one down a hole in a boulder field & took nearly an hour to fish out using a Ti pin taped to the other pole.
As I wrote above, the smaller pole won't bend if it is entirely in the middle sections (I use 20 cm). Broken pole? 9/10 poles break at the lower section, the one you don't need. Lost pole? Improvise, pitch lower and raise your pole with flat stones, mug a hiker and steal a pole, buy it off him if he's burlier than you... :wink:
 

Whiteburn

Thru Hiker
Yes, stronger because it stay totally within the 16mm tube: remove lower (14mm) sections from both poles, replace with tube joining the middle sections of both poles with flickloks nearly touching and you get one massively strong pole that is used handle up and down...
I think I see where my confusion is arising.
The BD pole are 16/ 14/ 12 diameters so removing the 14mm section leaves only the handle portions. Joining these with a 14mm tube would only give a pole ~100cm long (unless you carried a long piece of 14mm)
 

Balagan

Thru Hiker
I think I see where my confusion is arising.
The BD pole are 16/ 14/ 12 diameters so removing the 14mm section leaves only the handle portions. Joining these with a 14mm tube would only give a pole ~100cm long (unless you carried a long piece of 14mm)
Yes, I thought the 14 mm was the lower section diameter. Is your pole extender a fourth pole section that fits between upper and middle sections?
 
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Whiteburn

Thru Hiker
I won't use my BD's for tent poles anymore in windy conditions. They bend too much. Joining my Leki's which are 2mm larger diameter is a huge amount less wobbly.
In the winter, when it's likely to be a bit more windy, I'll using my Pacer poles with a 18mm flicklock coupler to join the lower two sections (tip up & down), it gives a very stiff pole, weighs in at 56g + a 13g rubber tip.
_DSC5042 (Large).jpeg
 

Rog Tallbloke

Thru Hiker
I won't use my BD's for tent poles anymore in windy conditions. They bend too much. Joining my Leki's which are 2mm larger diameter is a huge amount less wobbly.
Bigger mids need burlier poles. It's just how it is.

The 3/4" aluminium Easton which came with my Hex3 is only just up to the job. Lashing my walking poles to it in really heavy weather would probably be a good idea.
 

Teepee

Thru Hiker
Bigger mids need burlier poles. It's just how it is.

The 3/4" aluminium Easton which came with my Hex3 is only just up to the job. Lashing my walking poles to it in really heavy weather would probably be a good idea.
The vibration gets a bit worrying over about 50 mph, I've peen a pole hugger a few times in some heavy winds. Your bigger hex must exert well into the many 10's of kg, maybe into the 100's as it gets 'pole huggy'.

Mine get joined (as I'm sure most do) with a bit of tube and it makes a big difference if that join is offset from the mid point.

I used to use 30kg bs rings on my hammock tarp. I stopped using them when they'd regularly fail when doubled up.
 

Whiteburn

Thru Hiker
The vibration gets a bit worrying over about 50 mph, I've peen a pole hugger a few times in some heavy winds......
I remember one night in a vicious thunderstorm hanging onto the pole to stop it bending too much.....then I remembered lightning & the fact I was hanging onto a great conductor.......blew up the thermarest as hard as I could, put the shoes on the hands to grip the pole with the rubber soles & prayed that the storm would end.
 

Rog Tallbloke

Thru Hiker
The vibration gets a bit worrying over about 50 mph, I've peen a pole hugger a few times in some heavy winds. Your bigger hex must exert well into the many 10's of kg, maybe into the 100's as it gets 'pole huggy'.

Mine get joined (as I'm sure most do) with a bit of tube and it makes a big difference if that join is offset from the mid point.
Max stress on a mid pole is 2/3 up it. Set the tube biggest overlap there. Some sort of glued lashing on the joining tube you can attach guys to cinch down to the corner pegs might be useful in really wild conditions.
 

Teepee

Thru Hiker
I remember one night in a vicious thunderstorm hanging onto the pole to stop it bending too much.....then I remembered lightning & the fact I was hanging onto a great conductor.......blew up the thermarest as hard as I could, put the shoes on the hands to grip the pole with the rubber soles & prayed that the storm would end.
:biggrin: I had one of those last year on a raised area in a flat bealach, I was bricking it for hours.... only grabbing the poles when they looked like they are bending too much.
Max stress on a mid pole is 2/3 up it. Set the tube biggest overlap there. Some sort of glued lashing on the joining tube you can attach guys to cinch down to the corner pegs might be useful in really wild conditions.
That's interesting and counterintuitive, I thought it would be in the middle. As it happens, that's where I put the strongest overlap.

Guys would work but it makes the living space a bit of a nightmare with a single offset pole.
 

Whiteburn

Thru Hiker
Max stress on a mid pole is 2/3 up it. Set the tube biggest overlap there. Some sort of glued lashing on the joining tube you can attach guys to cinch down to the corner pegs might be useful in really wild conditions.
That's interesting and counterintuitive, I thought it would be in the middle.......
My take is that for a simple pin jointed column (which a Mids' pole equates to since no moment can be exerted on the ends by the tent or ground) the max stress is at the centre of the span.......if I could find my Structural Engineering Handbook I could quote all the formulas, but I'm retired :D
 

Rog Tallbloke

Thru Hiker
My take is that for a simple pin jointed column (which a Mids' pole equates to since no moment can be exerted on the ends by the tent or ground) the max stress is at the centre of the span.......if I could find my Structural Engineering Handbook I could quote all the formulas, but I'm retired.

That's interesting and counterintuitive, I thought it would be in the middle. As it happens, that's where I put the strongest overlap.

Guys would work but it makes the living space a bit of a nightmare with a single offset pole.

Agree it's counterintuitive. The person who said it was pole hugging, so maybe it bent higher up from where he was bracing it because that was the weakest point at the time.

Agree internal guys are less than optimal too, but I'd rather work around those than be under a flapping fly with a bent pole in a hoolie.
 

ceevee

Hiker
Can you recommend a 3d printer on the budget end of things?
Sorry for the delay Norrland (was out doing the Dales High Way this week).

Not sure about it being a 'recommendation' as such but I have the Creality CR10 4S (400mm bed). I have had it a while now and used it for loads of things but I am a tinkerer (classic 8 bit computer refurbs, home automation, RPi and ESP devices etc.).

I wouldn't get one unless you are going to use it for a range of uses. I know of folks that bought them on a whim and they never use it.

As others have commented, if it is just to print one or two things then use a service.
 

Balagan

Thru Hiker
Turned some old Mk.1 Vargo Cleats into Mk.2.5 by adding an underfoot dyneema strap at the front and a thin heel strap. The pair gained 13 grams but that's nothing compared to the improved security and it was somewhat compensated by making a slightly bigger, lighter, brighter stuff sack.

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ledburner

Trail Blazer
Turned some old Mk.1 Vargo Cleats into Mk.2.5 by adding an underfoot dyneema strap at the front and a thin heel strap. The pair gained 13 grams but that's nothing compared to the improved security and it was somewhat compensated by making a slightly bigger, lighter, brighter stuff sack.

View attachment 33700

View attachment 33701

View attachment 33702it looks good
. Will that underfoot (arch) strap going through the plate need some wear protection? a little hdpe plastic is surprisingly durabable. uocycle some from disposable bottles /milk jugs!
 
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