Whiteburn
Thru Hiker
Replacing 16mm tube with 14mm....stronger ?????
If you have 14mm tubing and flicklock poles, why not use that to replace the lower sections of both poles? It would be lighter and probably stronger too.
I think not.
Replacing 16mm tube with 14mm....stronger ?????
If you have 14mm tubing and flicklock poles, why not use that to replace the lower sections of both poles? It would be lighter and probably stronger too.
The lightest way to join 2 flicklock poles is to use a piece of 12mm tube ~10cm long (dis-guarding the lower sections of two poles); I've had 2 bend in the past.
If you have 14mm tubing and flicklock poles, why not use that to replace the lower sections of both poles? It would be lighter and probably stronger too.
Yes, stronger because it stay totally within the 16mm tube: remove lower (14mm) sections from both poles, replace with tube joining the middle sections of both poles with flickloks nearly touching and you get one massively strong pole that is used handle up and down...Replacing 16mm tube with 14mm....stronger ?????
I think not.
As I wrote above, the smaller pole won't bend if it is entirely in the middle sections (I use 20 cm). Broken pole? 9/10 poles break at the lower section, the one you don't need. Lost pole? Improvise, pitch lower and raise your pole with flat stones, mug a hiker and steal a pole, buy it off him if he's burlier than you...The lightest way to join 2 flicklock poles is to use a piece of 12mm tube ~10cm long (dis-guarding the lower sections of two poles); I've had 2 bend in the past.
The other downside is that you need 2 poles, what happens if one is broken or lost; I very nearly lost one down a hole in a boulder field & took nearly an hour to fish out using a Ti pin taped to the other pole.
I think I see where my confusion is arising.Yes, stronger because it stay totally within the 16mm tube: remove lower (14mm) sections from both poles, replace with tube joining the middle sections of both poles with flickloks nearly touching and you get one massively strong pole that is used handle up and down...
Yes, I thought the 14 mm was the lower section diameter. Is your pole extender a fourth pole section that fits between upper and middle sections?I think I see where my confusion is arising.
The BD pole are 16/ 14/ 12 diameters so removing the 14mm section leaves only the handle portions. Joining these with a 14mm tube would only give a pole ~100cm long (unless you carried a long piece of 14mm)
In the winter, when it's likely to be a bit more windy, I'll using my Pacer poles with a 18mm flicklock coupler to join the lower two sections (tip up & down), it gives a very stiff pole, weighs in at 56g + a 13g rubber tip.I won't use my BD's for tent poles anymore in windy conditions. They bend too much. Joining my Leki's which are 2mm larger diameter is a huge amount less wobbly.
Bigger mids need burlier poles. It's just how it is.I won't use my BD's for tent poles anymore in windy conditions. They bend too much. Joining my Leki's which are 2mm larger diameter is a huge amount less wobbly.
The vibration gets a bit worrying over about 50 mph, I've peen a pole hugger a few times in some heavy winds. Your bigger hex must exert well into the many 10's of kg, maybe into the 100's as it gets 'pole huggy'.Bigger mids need burlier poles. It's just how it is.
The 3/4" aluminium Easton which came with my Hex3 is only just up to the job. Lashing my walking poles to it in really heavy weather would probably be a good idea.
I remember one night in a vicious thunderstorm hanging onto the pole to stop it bending too much.....then I remembered lightning & the fact I was hanging onto a great conductor.......blew up the thermarest as hard as I could, put the shoes on the hands to grip the pole with the rubber soles & prayed that the storm would end.The vibration gets a bit worrying over about 50 mph, I've peen a pole hugger a few times in some heavy winds......
Max stress on a mid pole is 2/3 up it. Set the tube biggest overlap there. Some sort of glued lashing on the joining tube you can attach guys to cinch down to the corner pegs might be useful in really wild conditions.The vibration gets a bit worrying over about 50 mph, I've peen a pole hugger a few times in some heavy winds. Your bigger hex must exert well into the many 10's of kg, maybe into the 100's as it gets 'pole huggy'.
Mine get joined (as I'm sure most do) with a bit of tube and it makes a big difference if that join is offset from the mid point.
I had one of those last year on a raised area in a flat bealach, I was bricking it for hours.... only grabbing the poles when they looked like they are bending too much.I remember one night in a vicious thunderstorm hanging onto the pole to stop it bending too much.....then I remembered lightning & the fact I was hanging onto a great conductor.......blew up the thermarest as hard as I could, put the shoes on the hands to grip the pole with the rubber soles & prayed that the storm would end.
That's interesting and counterintuitive, I thought it would be in the middle. As it happens, that's where I put the strongest overlap.Max stress on a mid pole is 2/3 up it. Set the tube biggest overlap there. Some sort of glued lashing on the joining tube you can attach guys to cinch down to the corner pegs might be useful in really wild conditions.
Max stress on a mid pole is 2/3 up it. Set the tube biggest overlap there. Some sort of glued lashing on the joining tube you can attach guys to cinch down to the corner pegs might be useful in really wild conditions.
My take is that for a simple pin jointed column (which a Mids' pole equates to since no moment can be exerted on the ends by the tent or ground) the max stress is at the centre of the span.......if I could find my Structural Engineering Handbook I could quote all the formulas, but I'm retiredThat's interesting and counterintuitive, I thought it would be in the middle.......
My take is that for a simple pin jointed column (which a Mids' pole equates to since no moment can be exerted on the ends by the tent or ground) the max stress is at the centre of the span.......if I could find my Structural Engineering Handbook I could quote all the formulas, but I'm retired.
That's interesting and counterintuitive, I thought it would be in the middle. As it happens, that's where I put the strongest overlap.
Guys would work but it makes the living space a bit of a nightmare with a single offset pole.
Sorry for the delay Norrland (was out doing the Dales High Way this week).Can you recommend a 3d printer on the budget end of things?
Well done!... inflating the Thermarest while hiding from the midge inside the nest, 5.5g ....replaces a piece of...
Do you use a bag with it to inflate your pad or just blow through it?Snozzle type thingy to make it easier inflating the Thermarest while hiding from the midge inside the nest, 5.5g ....replaces a piece of 20mm semi-rigid plastic conduit connecting an Exped dry bag to the TAR.
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does it need a windproof outer., or would you have a hood any way?Another in my 'I'm a Dill if I don't carry it' range.
Alpha Direct 90 gms/m.
Goes down inside the collar of a shirt when fully unrolled and completely covers ears (and most of the neck and all of the forehead) when folded back up without stretching.
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does it need a windproof outer., or would you have a hood any way?
Turned some old Mk.1 Vargo Cleats into Mk.2.5 by adding an underfoot dyneema strap at the front and a thin heel strap. The pair gained 13 grams but that's nothing compared to the improved security and it was somewhat compensated by making a slightly bigger, lighter, brighter stuff sack.
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View attachment 33702it looks good
. Will that underfoot (arch) strap going through the plate need some wear protection? a little hdpe plastic is surprisingly durabable. uocycle some from disposable bottles /milk jugs!