Discussion in 'DIY & MYOG' started by Gadget, Jan 19, 2016.
Ah ha. Thanks.
@cathyjc Yeah a bummer that and the reason I never took the slingshot on longer trips. But I usually carry a piece of thin cf (for hip confort and warmth as a side sleeper) anyeay so its really just 30gr extra for a comfy chair...
Added an extra lineloc to the Notch Li door....
A roughly 2/3 length groundsheet protector made from polycryo, with bungy cord at the corners to peg down (my previous experience with polycryo involved narrowly avoiding it being blown away in the wind). The idea is that the risk of damage to the groundsheet is greatest where it bears the weight (mainly torso) and also the area where moisture can be forced through the fabric under pressure. We'll see if it works, it is only 30g.
Apart from all ourdoor projects (the Sun is blazing) its nice to hide in the cool basement tinkering...a mini table for 201K..butchered old Ikea table...interesting part were hinges and two grooves around the perimeter of the machine base...but maganed albeit not eye pleasant....function over looks?
Working OK so far, though the ground was only a little squelchy (compared with my usual standards)
One dollar from the Op shop. A sort of a jerkin. Cut the sleeves off my crew neck fleece. XL 102 gms. Over my Pulse hoody this is golden. See bottom right. I thought I was cutting the sleeve off. I think I blew up my sewing machine. Luckily the red and pink thread add a certain elegance.
Who's the j(gh)erkin then!
Nice packed size too.
Another pouch cozy / spaceman’s clutch bag with a gusseted bottom. Ooh,Matron!
My “mammut “ one is well bedded in and ain’t so pointy
Poundland foil Tape ain’t up to the job For this application. Use gaffa tape or drop me a PM for a few metres of the proper stuff. Postage only
Cracking dcf pouch built by the generous @Tartanferret
Holds both Cnoc bladders and the hydroblu Versaflow soundly. Cheers mucka
Lovely pic for my armature attempts. Built to last I hope.
I'm sure it will outlast the contents... #builttough there's room for the Versaflow to live in an insulated pouch I need to make for winter. Its also snug enough to be a clean fit when put into a side pocket or vest pocket.
Cheers mucka, its a grand thing
A minimalist sitmat cut from a 5mm Sarek gear pad: 30 x 20cm. Weighs a little under 5g. Maybe a little too minimalist, and easy to blow away in the wind
Attach a guy on it, with a carabiner to hook it on your belt loop, this way it won't blow away when you stand up.
I'm with you. Good move.
Here's mine, this morning, same size but I had to go to 10mm thick after ruining several good (3mm, 5mm) lighter pieces. Well over 200 uses on this piece. The 10mm always rebounds and a bit this size takes up no room. Only too minimalist if it doesn't work. If your 5mm works bingo, bango.....excellent.
'Repaired' my rubbish Brooks Cascadia 14s...
It'll do, the tape is quite soft.
I decided to add some draft walls to the X-Mid nest to make it a little more comfortable in the Spring & Autumn here in Scotland.
The fabric used was a 15D Nylon from AE & due to the panel size I had to buy 3m but it was quite cheap anyway, <£10, turned out better quality than anticipated for the price & only 26g/ m2. Final product increased the weight by 48g.
The next issue was tailoring, I reckoned any hope in getting a fairly tidy job was to be able to erect the nest so that the panels could be pinned to the taught mesh fabric. I tried sand bags to hold the bath tub down but eventually cut some 18mm ply to the shape of the ends (a 16 deg cut seems to have worked OK) & long lengths for down the flanks. Taping adjustable guys lines to the floor also helped pull everything taught; I’m glad I took some time sorting out an efficient means of erecting the nest given I probably had the nest up & down at least a dozen times.
1. After cutting the basic panels, 600 * 410 ends & 2100 * 370 flanks, I rolled the top & bottom edges over 10mm; I used a PVA glue stick instead of sewing (I'd ran out of fabric glue, but it worked fine). Then sewed the end panels in place to the bath tub top seam.
2. Erected the nest & pinned the top seam of the end panels in place, downed then stitched top seam.
3. Erected the nest, cut end panel corners (cat curves), rolled under & pinned in place, downed & stitched corner seams. Also Stitched one of the side panels to the bath tub top seam.
4. Erected the nest, pinned the top seam of the side panel & along zip line, downed & stitched the zipper (close to both edges of zipper tape).
5. Erected the nest, re-adjust side panel pinning, downed then stitched top seam.
I originally was going to have the side panels in two pieces, so the top edge was level, but after looking at the side panel pinned in place, I decided that the increase in work wouldn’t provide any additional benefits so went with a continuous piece.
6. Erected the nest, cut side panel corners, rolled under & pinned in place, downed & corner seams stitched.
7. Cut the face fabric along centre line of zipper, rolled under the edges & stitched down.
8. Steps 4 to 8 repeated for the opposite side.
My first proper MYOG effort, a bivy bag made of this rather bright stuff from ExtremTextil.
I roll more or less constantly when I sleep and like to have my mat on the outside of the bag, so I wanted a simple sausage that was the same no matter which way up and didn't have a hood.
The design uses 3m of fabric (well, 2.9m as I cut a 10cm strip to practice on) cut like this:
The two narrow triangles sew together and then join the larger shape to make a long dart that I sewed in. The seams aren't proper flat felled seams, I trimmed the fabric after the second line of stitching and then the edge is held by the seam tape.
It's just got a simple drawcord at the top:
The fabric is light but has a very nice feel (much nicer than the inside of a Hunka) and seems robust enough given that it won't be on the ground.
It weighs 406g. 70cm wide at the foot end, 89cm at the drawcord. That's wide enough for my winter bags and allows for a bit of foot wiggling in warmer weather. It's 240cm long but easily rolls out of the way. I'm waiting on some additional seam tape to arrive, which will resolve one or two small mistakes (I accidentally stitched an extra bit of fabric when doing the foot end and want to overtape two small sections of seam), then it'll get a first test in the back garden in the next week or so.
Later in the autumn I'll make an apex overquilt to go in it...
Looks very neatly stitched. Interested how the fabric performs
Thank you. I will provide an update on performance after a few garden nights.
Looks spot on, what type of seam did you use?
I'm not really a sewer and just used whatever foot was on the sewing machine so I think it's a not quite proper flat seam.
I sewed the first line of stitches with the outer faces touching and one edge inset from the other, folded the edge over, sewed the second line of stitches and then trimmed the edge a couple of mm from the second line of stitches so it would end up under the seam tape. Like this, but more taut:
(The central seam in the lower half of the dart is just a single line of stitching as I figured that the double seams on either side would take any strain.)
Not quite 'what have you made', but thought I'd try another way of sealing a rucksack liner. When nearly full it is sometimes difficult (and tedious) to reliably roll over and seal, so just trying a bag sealing clip. Probably lots of people do this already!
Not me yet
Now that's interesting what sort of tape is it please? I've chance of some puppy chewed trainers that I've passed over as the heels lining are also damaged. Cheers
Huge store flat packing cell with extra outside mesh pockets...to use with Hancor backpack....VX03 fabric
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