Sorry for the slow responses - I had to slip out camping for a day: Nice to hear that initial impressions are mostly favorable with regards to the quality, shape and spaciousness. Pitching "none of the pictures I have seen here or elsewhere show a good taut pitch with doors or other panels looking a little flappy." Indeed there are some painful pictures to look at. Hopefully the one above shows a better side to the tent. Most of poor pitches I've seen are due to a lack of tension around the base of the shelter. In short what is happening is that the rectangle isn't that tight, so when the poles are added it gets lifted up and that pulls the four corners closer together, so the sides become loose. It's important to stake out an accurate rectangle AND to have some tension on that rectangle. In the YouTube video where I pitch it, you can see at 1:15 that I'm pulling it taut when I insert that last stake. Alternatively, you could also stake it out loosely, fine tune to the stake locations, and then snug the rectangle up with the tensioners before adding the poles. How this affects the geometry is hard to explain, but if the rectangle isn't taut when the poles are added then it causes looseness in the middle of the sides because it is lifting the rectangle up (and thus drawing the four corners closer together). Consider a single pole pyramid (e.g. MLD DuoMid) - the simplest rectangle based tent. It has a rectangle base of course and if you look halfway up the tent there is still a rectangle (formed by the four corner seams) but now it is a much smaller rectangle at this height. Imagine that you staked it out in a rectangle with the angles correct (90 degress) but the whole rectangle was much too small (e.g. you weren't pulling the sides tight when you staked it). If you then inserted the pole and kept extending it, eventually you would get it tight along the four corners seams but the sides will never be tight because they are a fixed length which only pulls tight when the corners are the correct distance apart. In this case even when the corners pull tight the sides will still be too short. Similarly, if you want to pitch a DuoMid with large gap below the fly, you wouldn't stake it out in the same size of rectangle but with slack in the cord. Rather, you would stake it out in a tight but larger rectangle so that when the poles are extended and the shelter lifts off the ground, it is pulled to its natural size of rectangle. The same is true here in the sense that it is a rectangle based tent, so if it's not staked out tightly and the rectangle lifts off the ground then it is oversized relative to what it should be at that height. To be clear, you can do a floating pitch, you just need to stake it out in a larger rectangle rather than having less tension so it lifts more. So to get to the point, if someone is having trouble with getting the sides taut, then instead of having the poles as tall, have them a bit shorter and tighten it up more at the corners. I prefer to tighten up the rectangle snug before I add the poles. Doing this, the poles naturally max out at about 118cm with a good pitch (see video). If your rectangle is less tight then your poles can extend taller to pull it taut but then the sides aren't tight. So if you have a somewhat loose rectangle it's best to limit the poles to 117 - 119cm and then snug it up at the corners rather than extending the poles even taller to add that tension. Yet another option is to use the additional stake out points to "eyebrow" the sides per MLD. That's more of a stop-gap solution but you could also do this on purpose if you wanted more airflow. The other main culprit in a subpar pitch is getting the rectangle staked out accurately. In my video at 1:41 I show how you can check this when you're inserting the first pole. When that first pole goes in, you should have equal tension to both far corners like this: If one is tighter than then the rectangle isn't square. The pitch below is alright but it looks like the rectangle is a bit off so it's tilting a bit: As Padowan said, it's best to spend your time getting that 4 stake rectangle perfect. If you get the rectangle perfect and have some tension on it, then the pitch should look good when you add the poles without needing guylines, perimeter stakes etc. Everything else you might add should be to beef it up, not to fix a wonky pitch. Here is a video of me getting a good looking pitch per the above technique. Corner Cordage "My only criticism thus far is that the cordage on the corner linelocs is too short and will need replacing.....Dan had spec'd the guy outs at 20cm which gives you enough leeway for peg placement. The guy outs on mine are only just over 10cm." I suppose that's pretty good if your only criticism thus far is this When I said 20cm I was being imprecise because that I didn't specify that I was measuring from corner of the tent to the extreme end of the loop, so not just the cord itself. The actual cord between the tensioner and the end loop should be more like 14cm: My experience has been that the factory has been quite consistent with these cords. Are yours is precisely 10cm? Or were you speaking more generally and meaning they're more like 10cm than 20cm? I will pay attention to this in case it needs to be addressed from a QC perspective. You should be able to use that extra hank of cord that is included to create longer ones. Grommets "The pole grommets are a touch large in diameter for my poles which causes the tip to press visibly into the fabric, so take care on your first pitch and check this." "As stated, the pole grommets definitely not optimal for a standard pole tip. I'd be bothered about that. The main bugbear I'd have. That and the reinforcement fabric cap are the only part which looks a bit weak/poor spec" I'm certainly interested to hear more here. Particularly whether the concerns are the grommet diameter, the placement of the grommet or the quality of the grommet. I suspect it is the placement since I think the diameter and quality are pretty standard. The inner diameter is 7.5mm which I think is pretty standard. I tried a lot of different poles in these and found that trekking pole tips are all over the place (e.g. Fizan poles are way longer than Locus Gear). It sure would be nice if these were more standard. I didn't want to go larger diameter than this because some poles insert pretty far as is, but I also didn't want to go smaller because some tips barely fit in far enough to feel secure. As I said, I think this diameter is pretty standard. What is perhaps less standard is height of the grommet, in the sense that it is placed pretty high (close to the peak of the tent). I wanted the grommets to be fairly high partly because the closer they are to the true peak where the main lines of tension meet, the more solid it will be, but also because having them higher gets them out of the way if someone one wants to pitch it with the handles up instead. In testing I did notice that some of the slimmer/longer tips could push on the canopy enough to be visible externally as small dimple, so I investigated this pretty extensively to see if it would lead to problems. In most of my field testing I used the poles with the longest tips and while you could see where it was touching the top, virtually all of the pressure was still on the grommet so I couldn't cause any damage. I further set it up a windy area again with the longest tip I had for over a month to see if any damage could slowly accrue but the best I could do was mild scuffing on the PU coating inside the 210D nylon (which is not part of the waterproofing) and no damage to the nylon itself. Partly this is because the pressure isn't substantial since the grommet was taking virtually all of it, but also because the grommet is so close by than it holds the pole precisely in place so it's not rubbing back and forth. So longer tips can touch but will barely push and not rub. Certainly pole tips vary a lot though so there may be longer/slimmer tips out there that don't work with the current size/placement of the grommet, but if the tip is just pressing lightly then I don't think it will lead to any problems. Unless it looks like it's really pushing, I'd just keep an eye on it and I think you'll find it's not causing any damage. Also, just to be clear this is only the case with longer pole tips. Shorter tips like those on my Locus Gear poles don't touch at all. Hypothetically, if the tip were to truly cause damage and wear through the tent, this would put a hole in the tent (obviously not great) but it wouldn't be a structural failure in the sense that the grommet is still there and would be taking the force, so the tent isn't going to collapse. The worse case scenario is that the tent springs a leak. If you think your pole tips are on the longer side of things, it might be prudent to see if you have shorter ones or keep an eye on it for damage. I think most pole tips won't push and any that do would be pushing lightly enough that it's not a problem, but if you get any damage beyond scuffing of the PU coating then get in touch with me/Massdrop and we'll sort it out. I expect you could spot this happening long before the point of failure, unless your tips are much longer than any I've encountered. With regards to the reinforcement cap itself, this is 210D nylon. Other brands like TarpTent are using more of a rubbery material (PVC coated polyester I believe). I didn't opt for that because I used to own a Locus Gear Khufu that used this and I found that it strained some of the stitching because it had a less stretch than the fly material. The nylon used in the X-Mid peaks has slightly more stretch than the 20D polyester fly, so it doesn't create problems with concentrating stress like something with less stretch can. The main goal with this is abrasion resistance, so something with similar or more stretch works best for that. As I mentioned above, I would be pretty surprised if someone could substantially damage this with a normal pole tip because there is so little pressure and the 210D nylon is pretty tough. On hindsight though, I can see how someone could sleep better at night if the grommet was a bit lower and you didn't have to worry about it touching the 210D nylon at all. I'll keep this in mind for future runs and will likely move it a bit lower. "The mid tie points are just a simple loop of grossgrain. This is fine for a low pitch, but a lineloc or even a simple bungee would add some flexibility, and the possibility to raise up the mid point a bit for a nice through blast. I'll probably start with some bungee on those." "A small piece of bungee on the outer door tie up would be useful to have to allow the door to be held up when the mid point along that edge is pegged down. At present the tie up is too short when the door's pegged in the middle." For both of these it was question of whether it was worth adding weight for functionality that I suspect most folks would rarely use. The mid-tie points on the long sides are useful in a snowfall or high winds, whereas I pretty much never use the mid tie outs on the end walls. Indeed a bit of cord/bungee on these would be desired if you want to use them regularly. For the door, I am aware that you can't use the outer door tie up if you also have staked down the bottom edge of the door on that side. My thinking was that if it was windy enough that you want these optional stakes, then you probably don't want to be hanging around with that door open. Or if you do want a door open, then you'd could use the other doorway on the lee side of the tent. So I thought about this, but figured it was a rare enough use case that it was best not to add a few grams. But if someone did want this functionality they could extend the loop the door connects to with some extra cord.