1p tent design - any suggestions?

Discussion in 'DIY & MYOG' started by gamemaster84, May 19, 2020.

  1. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    My size 12s on a 3" airpad with 2" of quilt loft keeping them warm would be touching cloth with or without the triangle. I'm going to be Yorkshire brutal here and say the triangles look like an afterthought, and are in danger of making the design look more botch than Notch.

    Are you sure you don't want some tyvek to play with? It's 20x cheaper than DCF....
  2. WilliamC

    WilliamC Thru Hiker

    My experience with the Hexamid Long and the Dirigo 2 suggests that the end triangles allow you to get extra tension and make the fly much more stable in winds coming from that direction. I suspect the pitchloks on the Notch serve the same purpose. It's not just a way to get more space.
  3. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    Think I'll start another thread, don't want to clutter @gamemaster84 thread any more with my ramblings.
  4. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    No problem ;)

    I have one question about my design tough. The tramplite has the peak directly at the front so it creates a big slope for the wind. But creates less inner space. I offset the peak 10cm to the back to create a bit more inner space. Good idea or not? Or should I stick with the tramplite style?
    I wurry as with silpoly I need a cat cut and with wind blowing against the panel that there might too little space.
  5. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    @Enzo It's good to cross fertilise ideas, and William's right that the end triangle can add lots of support and wind resistance. But only if it involves a strut. With your current iteration, the triangles are a bit low to justify an additional pole, and it wouldn't work well with the changing angle you've got transitioning from your door panels to the roof panel anyway. In effect, you're putting a twist into each half of the roof panel, and DCF doesn't stretch to accommodate twists.
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
  6. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    Lack of space in wind is why z-packs put several mid-panel tieouts round the back of their tents, to increase volume.
  7. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    Yes I was think on having to points on the back seam with a mini line lock and some bungee cord. Not to tension the panel but hold it in place in high winds. I found that those pull outs warps the panel in strange directions when tensioned. But they have a purpose when wind is getting troublesome. But that's just my guess...
    And maybe the same or 1 tie out point in the other seams.
  8. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

  9. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    I think the tramplite design is optimised for zero stretch cuben it's a big rear panel even with a seam in and I'd guess it'd bow in in heavy wind. Colin's newer tents have guy outs along the back and even a spine using your other trekking pole.

    I think his first prototype had a sliding beak too. Great minds... :)

    Think I'd consider raising the peak to 130mm (if your poles do 135cm +) rather than moving it backwards, wouldn't that be the same as shortening the back panel by 10cm and lengthening the front beak by 10?
    Dunno
  10. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    I'll try that in sketchup.
    My pole go to 135cm and if needed I could connect my second pole with the carbon tube I use for my hexpeak.
    I was thinking on adding a dyneema cord at the back seam. I could work it inside the seam but I think running it under the tarp would be better as I have a choice of using yes or no. This could help with heavy winds. But I don't know of it damages the fabric on the long run.

    @Enzo with you're design the wider top width do you think it will perform a little less in heavy winds? I could do the same, but it uses a second pole the would have to go inside a SW tent...
  11. WilliamC

    WilliamC Thru Hiker

    If you're using cuben, be very wary of having anything touching the cuben but moving independent of it. The cuben will wear very quickly if they rub against each other.
    cathyjc likes this.
  12. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    If you run a cord or place a pole where the rear panel seam can rub against it, maybe consider stitching a heavier nylon tube into the rear seam to run the cord through or sleeve the pole. I think the pole sleeve is the best, because you can take a lot of strain off the rear tieout by supporting the wind blown cloth against the rigid pole. This also solves the loss of volume problem.
  13. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    Thanks, if I do a sleeve for a pole, should it be tensioned in some manner to have effect? Do you know? Sorry for all the questions...
  14. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    The more I research the more doubts.. Tramplite is 286 wide and says its for users up to 188cm and TIPIK - Pioulou is over 3m and says for users up to 190cm.. And I'm 196 grr this is getting difficult.

    My 3d model is 280cm wide and uses the entire width of the fabric. I wanted to maximize the fabric without the need to add some small triangles at the peak.
  15. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    You could sew webbing loops every 30cm down the outside of the rear seam and run some dyneema cord down that?
    Again I have a feeling Colin experimented with that too !

    I'd expect the twin pole design I'm playing with to be less good in wind than your design. It's a compromise, more headroom and works better with fabric width I have to play with. If they made cuben in 180cm widths I'd make a shelter like Williams's design.
    I'm hoping the narrow 66cm width won't catch the wind too much, and the panels are all pretty gently angled.
  16. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    Tramplite reinforced rear panel
    IMG_2350.JPG
  17. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    On my old Ultimate Tramp, the poles and sleeves were outside the tent body. That way, the sleeves are always under tension and fabric suffers less rubbing when everything is wagging in the wind. It had dedicated smooth alumnium poles. Trekking poles with flicklocks have lumpy bits of (relatively) sharp edged metal to deal with (maybe some kind of cushioning liner needed inside the tube or put over the flicklocks before inserting?).

    The big problem with designing this type of tent for tall hikers is material widths make it difficult to have cloth all the way to the ground, and have enough height for face and toes lying down.
  18. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    Ain't that the truth. Now do it with 137cm! Lol
  19. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    Great ideas! I'll play along with idea of it being outside for structure. I think I need a couple of hours with sketchup again ;)
  20. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    I've been thinking about it for years and still haven't cut the smaller of my two pieces of DCF. 16 feet of charcoal coloured 0.51 is less to play with than your 6m! I reckon I'll end up making a 9'x8' flat tarp with it. 72 square feet of coverage from 5oz! Lol.
  21. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    I could just order silpoly xl at rsbtr an make it as large as I want :)
  22. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    How wide is the XL?
  23. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    70" usable so about 177,8cm
    Rog Tallbloke likes this.
  24. gamemaster84

    gamemaster84 Trail Blazer

    I just don't know how much import will de added. I have a business account with them so I get a bit of discount. But never really ordered anything :). I would rather buy from adxpert but they don't have the xl

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