The "what have you made today" thread

Fossil Bluff

Fossil Bluff

Thru Hiker
Rog Tallbloke said:
Try hovering the pot over the stove at varying height without the stand in place just after it's boiled to find the sweet spot height-wise. Make sure you started with enough extra fuel for experimenting.
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Bleddy good idea, thank you :thumbsup:

I used a pop can stove for this and then tried a smaller pop can stove, made in the same way with probably 1/2 inch difference in height (lower) it managed to boil 500ml (same temperature) in 5 mins 30 but used 23 ml of fuel - the flames engulfed the pot...

By comparison, I produced a 7 minute 50 boil using 15 ml of fuel but using a Flat Cat Gear Snow Leopard 2 (and the Ti windshield / surround). At the same time / temperatures.

So I was very happy with the result of my little DIY jobbie. But I’ll certainly do some tweaking as you suggest :)

I’m guessing there is a balance to be struck between boil time and efficiency with any alcohol burner?
 
Shewie

Shewie

Chief Slackpacker
Staff member
Have you tried putting the pot directly onto the burner once it's bloomed? They can sometimes work well depending on the flame gap

I think the jetted type burners generally get through fuel more quickly than an open wick type
 
Fossil Bluff

Fossil Bluff

Thru Hiker
Shewie said:
Have you tried putting the pot directly onto the burner once it's bloomed? They can sometimes work well depending on the flame gap

I think the jetted type burners generally get through fuel more quickly than an open wick type
Click to expand...

I’ll give it a try, thanks for that :thumbsup:
 
WilliamC

WilliamC

Thru Hiker
Fossil Bluff said:
I’m guessing there is a balance to be struck between boil time and efficiency with any alcohol burner?
Click to expand...
In my experience (testing with wick stove in a TD cone), when your pot height is roughly right for efficiency, small changes in height have a greater effect on boil time than on fuel use but decreasing boil time can need better air-flow to avoid soot.
However, out in the real world and in a breeze, results from testing at home can be misleading. And, in truth, when you're in camp a difference of a minute or so in boil time and a gramme or two of extra fuel use are unlikely to be noticed.
 
Rog Tallbloke

Rog Tallbloke

Thru Hiker
Shewie said:
Have you tried putting the pot directly onto the burner once it's bloomed? They can sometimes work well depending on the flame gap
Click to expand...

You need the jet holes on the sides of the pop can rather then the sloping upper surface for this to work well. Otherwise the flame gap is too small and the cold water damps the vapourisation rate early in the burn. You need a bigger diameter pot around 130mm too.

Shewie said:
I think the jetted type burners generally get through fuel more quickly than an open wick type
Click to expand...
And boil water faster too. A well tuned jetted burner is slightly more fuel efficient in my experience, partly because you can get more air mixed in with the fuel around the bigger diameter, and partly because you get less heat loss from the pot sides during the heating time. That's mitigated by full-height cone use with a slower burner though.
 
Shewie

Shewie

Chief Slackpacker
Staff member
Rog Tallbloke said:
And boil water faster too. A well tuned jetted burner is slightly more fuel efficient in my experience, partly because you can get more air mixed in with the fuel around the bigger diameter, and partly because you get less heat loss from the pot sides during the heating time. That's mitigated by full-height cone use with a slower burner though.
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Not sure I agree with that, unless you add pressure into equation such as an MBD Atomic.

If you put 18ml of meths in an Evernew type of burner it would probably burnout much quicker than say a homemade Monkeyboy/Zeliph/speedster type wick burner and the water wouldn’t be as hot.

I’ll have a play later and see what the numbers are like, it’s been a while since I tinkered with burners
 
Rog Tallbloke

Rog Tallbloke

Thru Hiker
Shewie said:
Not sure I agree with that, unless you add pressure into equation such as an MBD Atomic.

If you put 18ml of meths in an Evernew type of burner it would probably burnout much quicker than say a homemade Monkeyboy/Zeliph/speedster type wick burner and the water wouldn’t be as hot.

I’ll have a play later and see what the numbers are like, it’s been a while since I tinkered with burners
Click to expand...
An evernew burner can be called many things, but 'well-tuned' isn't usually one of them. :D.
They chuck out a lot of heat, so you need a pan with a big surface area or HX fins to make use of it. My chinaclone version isn't as feisty as the original (and takes 2 mins to prime itself without some assistance), but once going, it'll boil 500ml with 18ml fuel in 5 mins using my 130mm wide Tatanka pot or my fire maple 112mm HX pot.
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
My hammock is finished.
11ft 1.6oz HyperD.
0.67 ns mesh
Amsteel Ucr and uhmwpe tree straps.

The bugnet is completely removable. I used a #3 coil zipper light tacblades diacribed
Here
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/133599-DIY-separating-zipper-any-length

Weight including suspension and 1mm dyneema guyline: 566gram
Some pics
IMG-20210220-WA0002.jpg IMG_20210219_172323.jpg IMG_20210220_145327.jpg IMG_20210219_172226.jpg IMG_20210220_120756.jpg

But..... The ucr slips. I followed tacblades video on how to make it. But I need to ty some knots behind it to keep it taught and even then it slips a bit. Is that because the coating needs to wear a bit? Or am I missing something? I milked it pulled in it everything but when I sit in the hammock it slips...
 
Odd Man

Odd Man

Thru Hiker
gamemaster84 said:
My hammock is finished.
11ft 1.6oz HyperD.
0.67 ns mesh
Amsteel Ucr and uhmwpe tree straps.

The bugnet is completely removable. I used a #3 coil zipper light tacblades diacribed
Here
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/133599-DIY-separating-zipper-any-length

Weight including suspension and 1mm dyneema guyline: 566gram
Some pics
View attachment 29726 View attachment 29727 View attachment 29728 View attachment 29729 View attachment 29730

But..... The ucr slips. I followed tacblades video on how to make it. But I need to ty some knots behind it to keep it taught and even then it slips a bit. Is that because the coating needs to wear a bit? Or am I missing something? I milked it pulled in it everything but when I sit in the hammock it slips...
Click to expand...

Looks so comfy that there's already some bloke taking a kip in it, hopefully he wasn't too much bother... :hilarious:
 
Teepee

Teepee

Thru Hiker
gamemaster84 said:
My hammock is finished.
11ft 1.6oz HyperD.
0.67 ns mesh
Amsteel Ucr and uhmwpe tree straps.

The bugnet is completely removable. I used a #3 coil zipper light tacblades diacribed
Here
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/133599-DIY-separating-zipper-any-length

Weight including suspension and 1mm dyneema guyline: 566gram
Some pics
View attachment 29726 View attachment 29727 View attachment 29728 View attachment 29729 View attachment 29730

But..... The ucr slips. I followed tacblades video on how to make it. But I need to ty some knots behind it to keep it taught and even then it slips a bit. Is that because the coating needs to wear a bit? Or am I missing something? I milked it pulled in it everything but when I sit in the hammock it slips...
Click to expand...

I can't see what you have done exactly but you need to have both ends of a UCR or Loopie sling under decent tension as the tailing end will open up and lose it's constriction. Whoopies only need one. TBH, I think they are more hassle than they are worth.

Amsteel can be a bit slippy until the urethane coating wears off, tends to be worse than other brands even. Even after milking it, they can still slip. It'll get better.
I use a small food bag clip. Not only does it stop the slip, but it works as a drip stop ( can be used as a line tidy too)
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Teepee said:
I can't see what you have done exactly but you need to have both ends of a UCR or Loopie sling under decent tension as the tailing end will open up and lose it's constriction. Whoopies only need one. TBH, I think they are more hassle than they are worth.

Amsteel can be a bit slippy until the urethane coating wears off, tends to be worse than other brands even. Even after milking it, they can still slip. It'll get better.
I use a small food bag clip. Not only does it stop the slip, but it works as a drip stop ( can be used as a line tidy too)
Click to expand...

Is this what you mean with some extra tension?
Screenshot_2021-02-20-16-05-54-371_com.google.android.youtube.jpg
Video from shug
 
Meadows

Meadows

Section Hiker
Is the ucr your suspension? If you have a long enough tail I've seen people who hang stuff off it to keep it tight, bit of a faff if you ask me. If it's long enough can you form a prussik knot back on to the line?
20210220_153425.jpg
 
Meadows

Meadows

Section Hiker
Ah ok. As you have a loop then you could add a prussik to that.
The coating does start out slippery but get better over time.
 
Teepee

Teepee

Thru Hiker
gamemaster84 said:
Is this what you mean with some extra tension?
View attachment 29737
Video from shug
Click to expand...

Yes. Shug has it right.
Meadows has it right too. You could also just use a cordlock to pull the loop back.

I didn't watch the whole vid but saw the bit where it said the tension isn't needed; this is wrong. The constrictor will creep and slowly release the constrictee.
The bury length determines how close you can pitch to the trees. Too long and it becomes a real handicap. Years ago when the numbers were done on HF, I think 7/64 only needed 2 inches to support the average hangers weight.
You can check the axact amount of bury needed on the manufacturers website; it's listed under FID and IIRC, it 21. FWIW, I never use more than 4 inches bury for 7/64 whoopies.
 
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