Build-a-Bear
F.K.A Pala2
Also, I weighted it at 50g/m², which obviously was a nice surprise
Also, I weighted it at 50g/m², which obviously was a nice surprise
@Clare ..It's hard trying to find decent webbing in the UK. Lots is advertised as Nylon, when it's polypropylene. You can often tell by its appearance though, Nylon has less sheen and looks more textured.
Pro-Fabrics carry proper Nylon ( that's what I've used for years).
It's about the buckles too, some bite harder than others. Some buckles have their teeth wear out fast. ITW's world range have a very convoluted path and bite hard. I like them, very strong and compact.
In order of webbing grip;
Nylon
Polyester
Polypropylene.
I used the bonding tape with some DCF I cut into strips to make my own "tape". Takes time and is fiddly but saves spending more dosh.
Now I'm confused the only "3M Venture tape" I've come across is aluminium backed tapeYup this what I’ve decided to do. I’ve ordered 3M venture tape from Paul and will stick it to some thin cuben I have from a previous project. Now that I have a huge cutting mat and metal rule it should be quite quick. Venture tape is much cheaper than the 3M transfer tape.
Now I'm confused the only "3M Venture tape" I've come across is aluminium backed tape
For MYO seam tape I'd be looking at the transfer tape & strips of cuben as @cathyjc suggested.
I have a roll of pauls venture tape, it sticks very well to cuben but not quite as well as the 9485pc imo. It's not just transfer tape either. The venture tape has a film in there too so it has more substance/bulk.
I have a roll of pauls venture tape, it sticks very well to cuben but not quite as well as the 9485pc imo. It's not just transfer tape either. The venture tape has a film in there too so it has more substance/bulk.
Just so everyone is clear, im not making up names for my tapes Its venture tape 1163.
As @craige states its a pet film carrier with pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive both sides. Weight is 4.8g per linear meter bonded to 1in wide 0.5oz cuben (applied, i.e backing removed). @cathyjc is correct that the 9485pc is lighter as it uses a thinner layer of adhesive and doesnt use a carrier film. I think the key here is does the product you want to use form a permanent bond and both tapes do. If i was making a shelter with a huge amount of seams to bond then id probably go 9485pc to shave the weight but 1163 is perfectly fine for all cuben bonding and sealing uses in my experience and the price is nice. A chandlers i use believe the chemical make up of the adhesives are the same in both tapes but that 9485pc was developed as a thinner run without the film to make the most of the weight characteristics of cuben but the world is full of stories that cant be substantiated. i can see why having a carrier film and thicker application of adhesive would make it quicker and more cost effective to produce 1163 but :shrug emoji: who knows.
Applying some verisimilitude to the above, ive had 1 bonded cuben product returned for a seam failure in the last 3 years with the owner admitting they had maybe gone a little bit ott on the size of what they might try to fit into it. When bonded seams in bags do fail they do tent to follow the seam but you should see fibre damage in the approach to the seam which undermines the bond before it lets go. In tents its often more sudden and can go from anywhere it wants to anywhere else depending of the forces applied.
Lastly its important to apply any taping procedure properly no matter what you use. Always clean bonding surfaces with pure alcohol and a lint free clean cloth / swab and dry properly. Always apply pressure to the seam but dont go crazy as too much will push the tape around and potentially weaken the bond. Never stress a seam until 24 hrs have passed as the bond does cure and strengthen.
Sorry its taken a why to comment. Ive been dying slowly for a week but im on the mend now.
Happy bondage one and all
Doin a poncho quilt. Not very good at sewing (this is the first actual sewing i've done beyond patching little holes in clothing).
Done the main part of the quilt, seems fine as long as no one pays attention to how straight the stitching is.
My main trouble is going to be sewing the head hole. For people with more sewing experience, how do you manage sewing in the centre of a thick material (apex 133)? Head hole will be in the center of the quilt, so half the quilt needs to squidge between the foot and the body/stem (? what does one call this part of the sewing machine), unless i'm thinking about this the wrong way?
Like one of these?All made simpler if you can get access to a "free arm" style sewing machine.